MiB Smarter Money » ROTH IRA

Can I Fund My Spouses IRA If They Don’t Work?

hank — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 16:00:26 +0000

Dear Hank – My wife is a stay at home mom. With a traditional IRA she is eligible for the “spousal IRA.” Can she open a Roth IRA as her spousal IRA, meaning I can invest $8,000 of my income, with half of that in her name? – Peter from Mississippi

Hey Peter – Good news – As long as one spouse has at least $8,000 of earned income, and your joint MAGI is under $160,000 (as you’ll reach your phase-out for ROTH in 2007) both spouses can contribute $4,000 ($8,000 total) to their respective Roth IRAs. Each spouse can contribute an additional $1,000 if he or she is age 50 or older by the end of 2007. So tap it out if you can! Thanks for the post!

Would you like to ask a question on MyInvestingBlog.com? I’m happy to answer it if I can – Contact me to submit the question.

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Should I Buy a Loaded Mutual Fund?

hank — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:01:48 +0000

My mother is not very financially savvy – and when I try to explain anything to her; it can often times take the better part of an hour. It may be her age or the fact she never had any financial education being a stay at home mom, but I like to try to give her the best info possible. This was a specific instance of that time.

She mentioned that she was heading into an Edward Jones investment rep this afternoon and wanted me to chime in with a few questions to help her make a good decision. Like I said, she is 55 with no retirement money aside from about 20k she cashed out of a universal life insurance policy she had out on my dad that was taking payments out of the equity it had built up.

That’s another conversation, but for this one, we’re focusing on how her conversation went.So the rep called me up and we had a conversation about what my mom had, and what she was doing now, and where she was headed. The first thing he mentioned was that “we need to start making your Mother’s money work for her NOW!” I obviously agreed and mentioned to him, “what funds do you recommend she get in?”

He came back with a handful of loaded mutual funds and I just stopped him in the middle of it and ask him why he wanted to put my mother in loaded funds. He actually was very up front about why. He said, “Clearly because that is how I make my money.”

I agreed and proceeded to tell him that we weren’t interested in his services and thanks for his time. He proceeded to tell me how “scary” and “difficult” and “dangerous” it was to be investing on your own. He said, “There are a lot of pitfalls along the way. Wouldn’t it be nice if you had someone to help you?”

I responded, “Yes, that would be nice to have someone that would warn me about financial advisors like yourself.”

That stopped him in his tracks and my mother took off.

New to the blog? Asking yourself, “what are loaded mutual funds exactly Hank?”

When I say “loaded mutual fund,” I mean a mutual fund that carries a sales load. A sales load is a mutual fund commission paid to brokers like this Edward Jones rep for selling you something you don’t need their help in buying. Sales loads do not benefit you, they benefit, and ONLY benefit the person selling them to you, much like an insurance policy.

Load fees typically range from four to eight percent and the way they are paid varies:

1. Front-end load (usually class A shares) – you pay the sales fee up front to the helpful broker.
2. Back-end load or deferred load (usually class B shares) – you pay the sales fee on your way out to your helpful broker.
3. Constant load fund (usually class C shares) – you pay the sales fees every year and might even have to pay a full load when you sell to the fine person selling you this.

Well Hank, I really like paying extra money for things I can do for myself (joking) what else is it costing me?

Well, think of it this way. By purchasing a loaded fund, you’re starting two steps behind. Let’s use simple numbers, say you bought a loaded fund with $10,000 that carried a 5% front end load. Well, as soon as you sign on the dotted line, you’ve just lost $500, so you’re starting with $9,500.

Think of the same guy that has the entire $10,000 to run on – who is going to be ahead in 1 year? 2 years? You can’t catch up because you’re starting behind. Think of it like an oval race track. If you are both running in the same lane, you are starting 5% of the way behind them, and will likely not catch up.

But Hank, they broker told me that these funds were spectacular and that I should make more from them than a no-load fund. Isn’t that worth it?

If a broker really did tell that to you; you are in a bad situation. Turn and run immediately. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. I can almost guarantee if you give me a loaded mutual fund ticker symbol, I can find a very similar NO-load fund out of the 12,000+ funds out there.

Feel free to contact me if you don’t believe me; I’ll find one for you. How many different ways can a sales guy scare you into buying the fund? Anyone else have some wise lines brokers have used to get you in their grasps and in to your pockets? I think if I wouldn’t have figured it out on my own, I’d still be playing Poker to take care of my retirement.
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What Do I Do During a Bear Market? What Do I Invest In?

hank — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 08:19:09 +0000

Photo by: artct45If you’re between 20-40 years old, don’t do anything. Stay where you’re at, markets fluxuate. That is their nature and that should have been something you learned before you got it. If this is your first time hearing about it, don’t worry and more importantly, don’t run. Let the traders panic. That is their job. They’re pounding down 15 cups a coffee per day and enjoy the stress. Let them deal with it. You’re paying a person that the traders are relaying information to in your mutual funds. You’re 3rd tier on that – sit back and enjoy the cheap stocks you’re getting into.If you haven’t sold, you haven’t lost. Stick to your guns and don’t get scared out of the market, recessions happen. But they always come back. As long as you still have a job, you shouldn’t be worrying. If you HAVE lost your job, you should probably not be reading this blog, try this one.

Buy technology stocks and fund. They’ve done really well this year, and think about it. We’re in the technology era; people WANT technology and are willing to pay for it still. As long as you’ve got a good time horizon for investing (10+ years left till retirement) I think you’ve got a good shot to get in at the bottom floor during the recession.

There are special recession ETFs geared towards recession. Look at medical, people always need to go to the doctor. Look at Claymore Securities.

Ultimately, my recommendation is to keep your money headed towards your investments as long as you’ve got a job. Keep your portfolio on track, this is the time when many people are getting out of the game, and as long as you’ve got time on your side, a perfect time for you to capitalize on the low prices being tossed around.

Do you have any secrets you’d like to share? Anything you’ve done in the past? Advice for the future?

Keep Your Investments Separate For Different Goals

hank — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:30:14 +0000

How many of you use your 401k for your everything bucket? I’ve overheard friends and family talk about their 401k like their “all for one long term savings account” saying things like, “I’m going to use my 401k for my kids education” or “my 401k is used for both me and my wifes retirements” or the worst to date, “I really need to get a car, I’ll probably borrow against my 401k”. The last one is clearly the worst because a car is a depreciating investment. You’ll never get that one back.

I can see the other 2 MAYBE working; but when you start to dabble the same investment for other pieces you often times lose site of what it is there for. A 401k is there for YOUR retirement; a ROTH IRA is for YOUR retirement. Unless you’re dumping TWICE as much in your 401k, it shouldn’t be set for yourself and your wife. Keep it for you and start something ELSE up for her.

Using it for your kids college education isn’t a HORRIBLE idea either, but take into account that you’re going to likely retire AFTER they go to college. So if you’re double-timing your 401k to education AND retirement, it’s going to look awfully small after the kids take it to school. By that time, it might be too late to know where you want to get with it. I offer the same advice for the person wanting to use the 401k for both he and his wife, make sure you’re dumping a lot into it then.

Just the visual aspect of seeing my kids 529 plans, my 401k, and my ROTH IRA are enough to keep me in line. I know what the investments are for, and what money is going where, and more importantly, why. Simplifying the process can often times remove that “investing blur” that you may have when it comes to saving for your future.

If that isn’t enough to convince you to keep them separate, think of how life is always changing; you have another kid, you have an accident at work forcing you to retire early, big medical bills come up. If you plan on your ROTH covering you in retirement (after 59 1/2) and you have to retire early, is there anything set up for that aspect? Might not be a bad idea to have that emergency fund fired up in that case.

Over time, your investments will change, your mindset will change, your timeframes will change. For those reasons you shouldn’t keep all your (investment) eggs in one basket. Spread them around to different baskets for different goals. If nothing else, it trains you on another aspect of investing when you jump to another ship and increases your financial education significantly.

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Can I Fund a ROTH IRA Account That Belongs To My Parents?

hank — Fri, 28 Dec 2007 13:00:11 +0000

Photo by: Seamus Murray

Another reader request asked:

My mother is 57, has no retirement $$$, and works full-time making about $25,000/year. I want to open a ROTH for her for Christmas, can I? – Shannon from Montana

Hello Shannon – how nice of you to think of Mom for the holidays! Congrats to you (and your Mom for having such a considerate daughter!) ROTH accounts are funded based on income, so as long as your mother has income, anyone can fund a ROTH account. As a side note, the only exception to the “need a job to fund a ROTH” is that a husband may fund his non-working wife’s account. And being 57, you’ll be able to contribute the catch-up amount of $5,000 this year for her. Merry Xmas to you and your Mom! What a perfect Xmas gift to give her!

Goodbye To My Universal Life Insurance From Hartford Mutual

hank — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 13:00:51 +0000

Photo by: dave mcmtSo I’ve done it – after debating for about 2 months and trying to convince myself that I DIDN’T make a bad investment in getting in on this, I’ve come to my senses. I admit it, I made a bad mistake 5 years ago to purchase my Hartford Life Universal Life Insurance policy. Over that 5 year period I was putting in $205.00 per month to be “invested” in ITHAX; not completely invested in it; honestly, I don’t know how invested I was in it. I straight out asked my agent “Is my investment based exactly on the ticker symbol ITHAX?” She responded back with,

“Well, not exactly. It is difficult to explain, but yes, some of your assets are in ITHAX, but we can’t tell exactly how many shares you own at any given time. Just wait for your monthly statement.”

Are you kidding me? First of all, I want to see my investment when I want to see my investment. We’re not in the 1980s anymore. I’m a GenX’er that has grown up with the internet. If I can’t see something online, that’s another hard strike against them.

Photo by: dave mcmt

Furthermore, how is that an “investment” then? Two terms to consider in insurance: SELLING and INVESTING. They are NOT the same word, and shouldn’t even be used in the same sentence generally. You are SOLD an insurance policy. You are not INVESTED in an insurance policy. They should be completely separate entities and treated as such in your net worth and balance sheets. You are SOLD car, home, and LIFE insurance. You INVEST in stocks, bonds, and mutual funds. Don’t get them confused.

Needless to say, she wasn’t completely happy with my choice to opt out of paying her salary each month. But they’ll be like that, they want you to stay in because you’re making them money. Take this number in. My $205/per month I was “investing” with her over the 5 year span made me about -$3,000. Yep, that’s right, that is a NEGATIVE number. I had put in $12,300 over 5 years, and my “investment” is worth $9,292 as of December 1, 2007. If that’s not a bad investment, I’m not sure what is.

I never took the Suze Orman view of Term Life insurance very seriously as for whatever reason I was under the spell of my insurance agent. My agent is a very nice lady; nothing against her (aside from taking my $) but she is just trying to make a living also – I have nothing wrong with that. But I’m out from under that umbrella now and am totally onboard with Suze and Dave Ramsey in the insurance piece.

Photo by: dave mcmt

CubeFarmer has pretty much written the exact same thing about their whole life policy. It’s crap, and Universal is similar. I can’t begin to explain how much I relate to the article. Almost to the “T”. I got in shortly after college because of relatives advice also, and here we are years later. One BIGGER caveat though is that the surrender charge is RIDICULOUS. My 9k investment, if cashed out now to find a new investment/insurance is going to take almost 4k in surrender charges!!! That’s almost HALF of my “investment” in there!

I’ve got an email in with her now inquiring about my options going forward and how to mitigate the surrender charge, but I’m pretty sure it’s similar to the Edward Jones ROTH IRA ladder structure, but stretched out over a longer period, which I believe is 15 years; one thing is for sure though, she’s not getting that $205 payment as soon as I find a decent term policy…

How Do I Plan To Reach My Investing Goals For Retirement?

hank — Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:00:50 +0000

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Only 0 days 5 hours 2 minutes left until Hanks Holiday Handout drawing!

To make my goal of having my net worth be $1,000,000USD by 2020 I need to have a plan laid out. Yes it will change through the years, My wife and I will get raises; we won’t get the return we’re shooting for with investments in some of the years, but as a base goal if we take our current principal of $75,000 and continue to invest $21,500 per year for the next 13 and that will put us just over the 1MIL mark. That first MIL is the hardest, Pinyo lays it out here.

Where do I find $21,500 per year to invest? We’re currently contributing 10% of each our salaries for about $16,000 per year to our 401k plans, then add in $4,000 each for our ROTH IRA accounts and we’re well over the limit there. We’re planning on bumps in the road, so that’s why I’m giving the $21,500 number. There are a lot of calculations that need to taken into account, but that is the same with any investment plan. At 10% return with those calculations we’re looking at just under 840k, and at 12% that puts us over the 1MIL mark.

We could have a year where we can’t pay contributions to either our 401k or ROTH, but on the same note, there could be years where we’d contribute MORE to those accounts, For instance, we’re planning on trying to bump the 401k contributions up to 15% in 2008 and that would be $24,000 in itself; add in the ROTH IRA contributions and we’re looking at $32,000 invested per year and in 13 years, that will be worth 1.33MIL.

Numbers are numbers – sticking to the path of just getting money in is the key. In 13 years I’ll still be nowhere near retirement, but the first million is always the hardest to make, after that, it is quite ridiculous how fast it grows. In 35 years on this same $21,500 per year at 10% return we’re looking at 8.5MIL. Which is dreaming, and a lot can happen in 35 years, but there is no time like the present to start planning on it!

Time, as usual, is the key piece of this financial pie; variables are always tossed in to make it interesting. As long as we’re putting in the $21,500 we’ll be on a good pace. I’m sure there will be other investment opportunities, more job promotions, more raises, maybe more kids, but staying on this basic path is the key to our specific financial goal. What’s your path?

I’m Ditching My Edward Jones Deferred-Loaded, “B” Shares ROTH IRA

hank — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:52:56 +0000

So after writing about how my Edward Jones ROTH IRA was invested in “B shares” of NFPBX and no response back from my Edward Jones rep questioning him if I could get out without paying the 5% deferred load or reallocate the funds elsewhere, I figured it was time to do something about it, and I have. As of yesterday at 9am, I turned off the faucet to funding that account. We’ll see if he calls me back now.

Either way I wasn’t very happy with the service he was giving me. He’s a nice guy, but it just seems to me like he is selling me a product instead of investing my money, very similar to my Universal Life Insurance policy I was sold on 5 years ago (of which I have also turned off the faucet, more on that later). But an advisor should be someone that is there to ADVISE you of where your money should go to help for YOUR retirement, not theirs. I am confident enough now to select my own funds and choose my own investing path, but it is nice to have someone to ping questions off if I DO have questions and for second opinions.

The personal finance blog network is one resource, but I like to have the option to ask a question to a certified financial planner if I can as well. It’s advantageous to have as many resources in your investing bullpen to help along the way with any decisions. So I will keep the Edward Jones account open for nothing more than to utilize the resource he’s given me; I won’t close the account because he’s not the one holding the bag for the 5% deferred “ladder approach” to investing, it is the actual fund, NFPBX. The ladder approach the Edward Jones rep refers to is that the 5% deferred load on the fund will decrease each year I stay in it, up until the 5th year, at which time my account will be converted into “A” shares and the load will be gone.

His explanation of the reasoning behind this is that “it will keep me honest in my investing, and force me to invest for my future”. Well, duh, I know I need to stay in for the long haul, but I don’t need to be investing in HIS future, nor the futures of the fund managers. I think they’ll do just fine without me. I also don’t mind keeping the cash in with NFPBX because it IS a decent fund; repeat, DECENT fund. I hate the deferred load, and the expense ratio of 1.48% isn’t in my sub 1.0% range, but it HAS returned 16% this year, and I can’t balk at that. But I think I can find better ways to manage the $.

In comes Charles Schwab – Honestly, it is the infancy stage, and I’m sure there may be bumps along the way. But they’ve been nothing but cordial in my journey thus far. Yea, I know, they want me for my money. If I find they’re not doing me a service, I have no qualms leaving them either; after all, I can open as many ROTH IRAs as I’d like if I really feel like it. But I am very happy so far. The one sticker so far I’m dealing with then is the fact that I’m NOT transferring my current ROTH or cashing it out (for $400 via the 5% deferred load is what I’d have to pay to get out now) so I don’t have any capital or $ to be sending to a ROTH right now, so I’m starting with the payments I PREVIOUSLY had going to Edward Jones of $100.

The payments will now be headed towards my new ROTH with Charles Schwab under one of their funds, SWEGX. SWEGX has been doing alright this year and it’s basically a mutual fund of mutual funds because it’s holdings are smaller funds, also held by Schwab. Morningstar gives it a 5 star rating. It has a 0.80% expense ratio that I like, and is a no-load fund. Finally it’s got a 12.4% rate of return so far this year, which isn’t too bad either. We’ll see how it does over the next few months, but as a starter fund and only have 100$ to start investing with, it is going to do the trick nicely I think.

Welcome to the family SWEGX!

How Many ROTH IRA Accounts Can I Have Open? Can I Have Multiple?

hank — Sun, 09 Dec 2007 16:23:19 +0000

Short answer, yes.

I was considering just leaving this at that, but I figured I’d add a few extra lines to better seal the deal. So in writing My Edward Jones ROTH IRA account is invested in B shares – Is that good? I researched that same question because I was fed up with getting tossed in the “B” share pool, and wanted to get out, but thought (for whatever reason) that I could only have 1 ROTH IRA account open, but no, you can have 10,000,000 ROTH IRA accounts open if you’d like, as long as you don’t go over the $4,000 limit ($5,000 for those over 50) in any given tax year. However, I recommend NOT doing this because with each account, you’ll be buying into a fund for whatever amount your brokerage charges to make a trade, usually between $10 and $50, and that’s really going to eat at the principal, especially if you’re in 10,000,000 accounts.

But under my “bad investing decision #8 now I guess, it makes more sense for me to open another account up, as I won’t be paying the 1st one anymore for transactions, and will have to suck up and choose 2 or 3 stellar ones for the new ROTH…

What Is A Self-Directed IRA And How Can I Use It?

hank — Thu, 06 Dec 2007 14:51:23 +0000

I recently had the pleasure to interview Will Sugg, a fellow personal finance blogger that works towards his fortune with Self Directed IRAs. I am no professional in the arena, so he was very willing to answer the few questions I had about them – I hope they can demystify the Self Directed IRA questions YOU may have.

1. What is an Self Directed IRA?

A Self Directed IRA is an IRA that allows you to buy or invest in things other than Mutual Funds, Stocks and Bonds. Self Directed also means that the custodian is merely a holding bank account for your retirement funds and you have to “Direct” them to buy or invest in the Asset you want to hold in your retirement account. The “Direction” for the custodian that I use is a several page form that you fill out with all the details of the investment, then I fax or email it to the custodian. It tells them what to do, what to expect, and where to send a check. I think of a Self Directed IRA as “The Do It Yourselfers” retirement account/plan. If you have specific knowledge bout some area that makes money then you can profit from that in your IRA. There is very little that you cannot invest in with IRA funds. See a list below.

2. Who can use a Self Directed IRA?

Anyone can open a Self Directed IRA as long as you have earned income or your spouse does. Basically if you can open an IRA with a bank you can open Self Directed IRA. Business owners can benefit significantly once they realize the potential of this type of IRA or 401K.

3. What is the difference between a SD IRA, a Traditional IRA, and a ROTH IRA?

There is really only 2 choices in IRAs; Roth or Traditional. Either can be Self Directed.

4. Where can I sign up for one?

You open a Self Directed IRA with a custodian that understands what they are. I’ve listed several on my blog here.

5. Why should I use a SD IRA over a ROTH or a Traditional IRA?

You can have either as Self Directed. If you are opening a new account and you’re not yet retired I would say that you should open a Roth account since the growth it creates is tax free on harvest. I have both a Traditional and Roth Self Directed IRA but almost all of my investment activity is done in the ROTH. The reason you want to Self Direct your IRA is so that you can use your specific knowledge to help your retirement account grow instead of relying on others opinions and management skills.

6. How much can I invest in one?

If you already have a Roth or Traditional IRA established at another custodian you can roll it over to a Self Directed custodian. If your opening a new account with a Self Directed Custodian. Right now the IRA says you can contribute 4,000.00 per year. That figure can change as dictated by the IRA and congress. Of course for the Roth type you are also constrained by the Earned Income limits set by the IRS.

7. Can I roll a ROTH or Traditional IRA over to an SDIRA? How about my 401k?

Sure you can roll over either type of IRA into a Self Directed Custodian. It’s very simple and painless.

8. How long have you been investing in SD IRAs?

I’ve been using my Self Directed IRA for investing for the past 4 years.

9. Where did you learn about SD IRAs?

I learned about using an IRA to buy Real Estate from talking with family, friends, and some business contacts that were using theirs to do the same thing. Then I did a lot of research on the internet to determine which custodian I like better and opened an account. I first rolled just a small amount into it so I could do one transaction. Once I got the hang of it and understood how this could significantly help my retirement plan I rolled the rest of the money I could into my account.

10. What CAN’T I invest in with an SD IRA?

There are such things as Prohibited Investments and you need to learn what they are. Here is a short list:
- Artworks
- Rugs
- Antiques
- Metals
- Gems
- Stamps
- Coins
- Alcoholic beverages
- Certain other tangible personal property

But most folks wouldn’t want to invest in these any way. Here is the IRS language about Prohibited Investments in case you want to see everything. You also can’t profit from the IRA meaning you can’t loan yourself money from it or buy a Rental Property and then go live in it, that is considered Self Dealing.

11. I want to invest in real-estate through my SD IRA. How do I go about telling my brokerage account that I’m buying a house with my SD IRA?

This example is just to illustrate of the process there is Due Diligence you need to perform to ensure that the investment is prudent for you. It also assumes that you have the entire purchase price in cash. You first open a Self Directed IRA with a Custodian that understands what that really means.
Not all IRA’s are self Directed so that you can buy Real Estate in them. Check out the short list from above, all of those custodians are real Self Directed Custodians. After you have the account open and funded, you find the investment. In this case some Real Estate property and get it under contract. Have your agent if there is one open Escrow. Then it’s merely ending the Custodian the “Direction of investment” forms and them sending a check for the purchase price. Once Escrow closes the transaction and records the deed your IRA is now owner of the property. Your SDIRA can borrow money to fund the purchase, however the down payment required is usually 30% or more. That however is another topic for another day…

12. When can I withdraw from my SD IRA?

The same times as you can with any other IRA or 401K plan (59 1/2).

13. Is my SD IRA funded by pre-tax or post tax dollars? Do I pay a tax
when taking it out?

Depends if your IRA account is Roth or Traditional.

14. Can I have an SD IRA for my spouse if they are unemployed (contribute
twice as much)?

If you can do it with a Roth or Traditional IRA you can do it in a Self Directed IRA.

15. Is there a phase-out schedule like in the ROTH IRA that pertains to an SD IRA?

Yes, these apply to your Roth IRA whether or not it’s Self Directed.

14. What is your SD IRA invested in?

My Self Directed IRA is 100% invested in Promissory Notes secured by either Real Estate or in some cases by Mobile Homes. Some of the Notes I bought at a discount and others I lent the entire amount of the Note to the Borrower. I’m still in the cash generating mode of investment so I am investing to get cash flow going. Once I build up a nice monthly cash flow I may move to another type of asset. Certainly in the long term goals I have I want to own Real Estate.

Will clearly has a vast knowledge about the subject and I’m happy he was willing to take an interview for it – I suggest you all check out his website regularly at http://willsugg.com/irablog/ to keep up to date on the latest happenings in the SDIRA arena!